Essential Namibia Wildlife Safari.

Essential Namibia Wildlife Safari Trip Report:

Days 1 & 2: Windhoek.
The clients on this safari tour came in a day early, so we had a morning at Daan Viljoen Nature Reserve on the outskirts of Windhoek to start off, getting to grips with some of Namibia's birds and wildlife (the standard itinerary includes only one night in Windhoek, but it's easy to add another night to give time to recover from the journey, and allow for any major flight delays etc).

Days 3 & 4: Sossusvlei.
Then, on the first full day of the safari, we departed Windhoek early on a long but incredibly scenic drive to Sesriem, access point to the Namib Naukluft National Park. On our full day here we had an early breakfast and then took a half day trip down to Deadvlei, one of Namibia's most scenic spots, where ancient dead Camel Thorn trees on a large, clay pan make for some incredible scenery. Animals seen included some of the classic Namibian species, such as Springbok and Gemsbok / Oryx - practically the only two large mammal species capable of living permanently in this harsh environment.

Days 5 & 6: Swakopmund.
After a long but interesting drive through the Namib Desert, we arrived at the coast, spending some time in Walvis Bay to see the huge numbers of both Greater and Lesser Flamingos. On our full day in Swakopmund, we explored the 'Moon Valley' landscape of the Swakop River and the Welwitschia Drive in the morning, and in the afternoon went on a 'Living Desert' excursion to learn about life in the Namib 'dune sea', home to interesting 'herps' such as Namib Sand Gecko, Shovel-snouted Lizard, Peringuey's Adder and Namaqua Chameleon.

Days 7 & 8: Damaraland.
From the coast we trekked inland to Uis and then on to Camp Kipwe in the spectacular Damaraland region - remote, incredibly scenic, and home to desert-adapted Elephants. We had two nights here, with a full morning drive to see the remarkable desert-adapted Elephants in the Huab River valley. Angolan Giraffes also frequent the river, feeding on the leaves of the giant Winterthorn trees that grow here where subterranean water is available. An amazing experience overall!


Days 9 & 10: Etosha: Okaukeujo and Namutoni.
The start of the 'safari' component! In terms of wildlife, Etosha is undoubtedly the highlight of this safari. Animal numbers can be impressive, especially around water holes during the dry season (June to early November). Game viewing was good, as usual, with highlights including numerous Black Rhinos at the camp water holes after dark, several encounters with a pair of Cheetah brothers near Namutoni, and a fantastic Honey Badger sighting.

Day 11: Erongo Conservancy.
After our Etosha safari we made our way back towards Windhoek, with a last night at Ondudu Safari Lodge in the Erongo Conservancy. This is a beautiful spot, the camp set in among giant boulders and, on a birding note, a great place to see the near-endemic Hartlaub's Spurfowl. We were on the hunt for the Black Mongoose, but unfortunately didn't have any luck, despite a long early morning vigil. But a pleasant stay nevertheless, and the Porcupines visiting the small, flood-lit waterhole during dinner were a highlight.

Accommodation summary:
Overall the accommodation on this safari tour was very good.

Arrebusch Travel Lodge in Windhoek obviously caters for 'in and out' travellers, but is well situated and serves the purpose adequately.

Taleni Desert Camp at Sesriem is very nice overall. Fairly simple rooms, but clean and comfortable, and having the meals at the main lodge down the road works well, as their meal times are geared towards early departures for Deadvlei, and the dinner spread is just amazing in quality and variety.

Swakopmund Guest House is our digs of choice in Swakopmund, very clean and comfortable and well-situated for the various activities, and easy walking distance of the sea front and a number of good restaurants.

Camp Kipwe is superb, with unique 'bee-hive' type chalets, wonderful food and service. A great base from which to explore the petroglyphs of Twyfelfontein, and to see the Elephants and other game species in the area. A real tour highlight! Note the camp of choice is Mowani Mountain Lodge, but Camp Kipwe is a good alternative.

Etosha, Okaukeujo and Namutoni. In a nutshell, you don't visit Etosha for the food or accommodation! Sure, it's passable but, like many Govt-run parks and camps, upkeep is not what it should be, and staff attitudes aren't always what they should be (though to be honest, the latter has improved markedly over the last few years). So, keep expectations realistic, and appreciate the nature side of Etosha, that's the way to do it.

Ondudu Safari Lodge is wonderful, with an incredible setting, great food and service. Layout and topography can be a bit challenging for those who aren't very mobile, as there's a lot of up and down, given the setting in among rocky hills. But the views are outstanding, and the 'bird table' will keep birders occupied for hours!

Please note that exact accommodation may vary, depending on availability.

Safari Tour Summary:
If you want to see some of the best of Namibia and its wildlife and birds, this is a great safari. It's not too long, but covers most of the main destinations and, as mentioned, incorporates plenty of diversity, and some truly awesome landscapes. There are some outstanding wildlife and landscape photo opportunities too. In terms of tour focus, the main focus of course in on the mammal component, but there are still plenty of birds to be seen 'on the side', including a number of the sought-after near-endemics.

Top mammals seen:
African Elephant, Cheetah, Lion, African Wild Cat, Honey Badger, Spotted Hyena, Hartmann's Mountain Zebra, Angolan Giraffe, Black Rhino, Damara Dik-dik, Klipspringer, Rock Hyrax, South African Ground Squirrel, Slender, Banded and Yellow Mongooses (and a number of 'plains game' species).

Top birds seen:
Freckled Nightjar, Ludwig's Bustard, Ruppell's Korhaan, Verreaux's Eagle, Augur Buzzard, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Double-banded Courser, Violet Wood Hoopoe, Damara Red-billed and Montiero's Hornbills, Pygmy Falcon, White-tailed Shrike, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Carp's Tit, Gray's Lark, Rockrunner, Bare-cheeked Babbler, Herero Chat and Sociable Weaver, among others.